Late Summer landscapes
23 August 2015
Ben Pentreath
20 Comments
I remember some friends of a friend coming back from a long holiday in Tuscany one August to announce that the time “had been characterised by rain and conversation”.
Which sounded like such an improbably made-up E. M. Forster type of remark, and not quite the sort of thing I wanted to come back saying (for a number of reasons), that I began to get seriously worried on day two of our stay with Val. Thundery skies rolled in relentlessly… but they did, at least, make the remarkable view from Brolio Castle even more dramatic than usual.
The view across to Siena never really seems to change. I love these timeless towers.
The skies were angry but sunshine was never too far away.
The gardens are Brolio are not just about the view. There is a green leafiness to much of them that reminded both Charlie and me of the shady part of Rousham.
We had our usual display of spectacular sunsets, it goes without saying.
When suddenly there is that moment that the sky lights up like fire:
Before a perfectly cooked dinner by Valentina. Flowers by Charlie.
Now that I am a married man, no more Palio blogs (but I suggest you search back for them if you don’t know what I am talking about….). Siena is, I think, the most beautiful Italian city.
(Maisie, this one is for you:)
New discoveries:
Old favourites:
I loved our evening walk back to the car through the dark streets… children kicking around their football in front of the facade of a great Baroque church… only in Italy.
Days had drifted by, and the following morning Charlie and I set off south, to Pienza. We called at Montalcino on the way, the roofs of the town forming a pattern like the fields and hills below.
We arrived in Pienza to a fleeting rainstorm
soon followed by a wide, strong rainbow. And a perfect evening walk around town, quietening down from day visitors. This is one of the most beautiful small villages in Tuscany, famous for its realisation of the ‘Ideal City’, but all the more spectacular for its vast views over the Val d’Orcia.
Finding little corners with Pomegranite trees in gardens, we made our way to a delicious supper, the best we’ve had in Italy, at Il Rossellino, although to read the reviews on tripadvisor you would think I was going mad. (I am really not sure I trust tripadvisor, do you?).
We work early on Saturday, to find the little town sparkling in a bright light and a gentle breeze.
The Palazzo Piccolomini is worth a visit. The tours are with those earphone wands, in a multitude of languages, which I found a bit strange, but the building is incredibly beautiful. Photographs are not allowed inside, I am afraid, and for once I obeyed the rules. There was a blind lady in our group. Our tour guide took her hand and ran it over every surface, carved Renaissance fireplaces, scagliola table-tops, and wooden furniture. A wonderful moment.
The cathedral has a beautiful ceiling.
Of course I adored the 1980s guide phones the most of all.
And this sign at the entrance.
We ate lunch in Monticchiello, with amazing views back to Pienza, and a beautiful, silent church.
And in the evening, we had an amazing drive south, to La Foce, the beautiful house and gardens created by Iris Origo and her husband Antonio in the 1930s. Our friend Maria had fixed a visit in the evening, with Iris’s daughter Benedetta. Amazing. It was an incredible moment.
Benedetta’s wonderful daughter delivering a box of freshly picked plums to their restaurant that they have opened next door to the gardens. with this view…
I woke up incredibly early this morning, and as the sun rose I made a quiet walk around silent Pienza, chalky-grey in the early light.
And then we made our way north, and collected our friend Catherine, and now we are driving to Lucca for Valentina’s birthday party tomorrow, and then…. as if all of a sudden, it’s time to go home. Goodbye, late Summer in Tuscany. Hello, Autumn in England… we are looking forward to seeing you now.
20 comments on this post
No more Palio postings!?!?!? I used to like the addition of Charlie, but now I’m not so sure … lovely post, as always. Brings back the best of memories.
As always, a thing of beauty and a feast for the eyes….particularly loved your early morning in Pienza which brilliantly evokes that time of day. so glad you have both had such a lovely holiday, and been good enough to share it with your devoted blog readers
La Foce is open to common mortals, at least it was a few years ago. The times were a little eccentric, I imagine they have a website.
So great to have friends in high places! Thank you for sharing La Foce and all points Tuscan. Best from a grizzly (= grim and drizzly) East Devon. Nicola
i will never see all those places and such wondrous things ben.
but to be able to see them in such a personally shared way just makes me smile.
i feel it’s been my holiday too.
thank you!
Oh bloody hell Ben. Jealous and gobsmacked in equal (ish) measure… and Lucca too… I weep!
oh. memories of my two summers in Tuscany ….
cant decide which of these gorgeous photos to use for wallpaper… they are so gorgeous
You’re right about Tripadvisor.
There’s a fascism about the negative reviews and if the reviewers don’t go back then I’ll be eating in the restaurant they panned.
A restaurant improved by their absence
! Agreed…. 😉
Beautiful! It has been rainy and a little cooler here too-I am so looking forward to Fall. Thank you for a great start to my Monday morning.
xo, Lissy
I plan on visiting Tuscany next winter. I’m fascinated by the history of the Anglo-American colony there. Long to visit La Foce. Is it open to the public. I ask because I rarely see any people in B. Pentreath’s photos.
Dear Andrew – yes it is open regularly… http://www.lafoce.com for all the details…
All best, Ben
Ben, I was rather looking forward to your round up of the dishy types watching the Palio! A very touching story of the blind lady on your tour.
Just looked at your Blog, and by coincidence I am halfway through “War in Val d’Orcia” by Iris Origo!!! When you are in Lucca, don’t miss the public garden in the far corner of the city, it is very easily missed.
Thomas
Once again thanks for sharing your stunning holiday photographs – on a dull Monday in Somerset I wish I was in Italy!
Amazing! You evoked the magic and mystery! So enjoyed this. Gave been thinking of those drawing you did in your student days in Syria. Thank you for sharing this grand adventure.
I’m going to Tuscany in October. I cannot wait. Beautiful! These photos just whet my desire.
ps I was told that the weather always changes on August 15th, from being very hot to suddenly quite a bit cooler with rain. Lisa
A beautiful blog Ben, thank you. Stunning sun setting photographs, and how fortunate we are that we can see these incredible gardens through your eyes.
About two years ago you wrote a blog when you were in bed with ‘flu and thinking of buying a house instead of renting. I replied that I too was in bed with flu,thinking of selling and moving to Italy.( a different continent even) I rented an apartment in the centro storico of a small town, and I am so happy. A good move.
I fling the shutters open in the mornings and revel in the sounds; the language, the bells…everything. I expected to be thrilled by the buildings and the paintings and the fresh fruit and vegies in the market,and I am, but I am totally enthralled by the sky and the puffy soft clouds, and yes, the sunsets. I feel on permanent holiday and the good thing is that I am already home. Thanks Ben and Happy Birthday to Valentina. Lisa
You were shown around La Foce – you lucky man! Lovely post as always. It’s just started raining here.
Robert