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Weekend in Rutland

22 May 2016
Ben Pentreath
15 Comments

We’ve been in Rutland for the weekend – for a wonderful wedding of our friends Connie and Tom.  In a strange sense, Connie is familiar to every one of our readers – she’s the brilliantly talented graphic designer who designed our website when Bridie and I re-planned everything a couple of years ago now.

It was the happiest craziest most fun party we’d been to for, well, at least a year (since our own wedding party, of course, down in Dorset) and even more fun to explore a completely new part of the world; the beautiful, serene, green Heart of England.

We started in Uppingham, the tiny market town near Connie’s house… having a perfect Saturday morning mooch around this little place with, seemingly, hardly a chain store in sight and a thriving number of small independent butchers, bakers and bookstores. And this brilliant Ironmongery shop complete with gloss green and cream shopfront.

P1010285 P1010290 P1010294 P1010296 P1010298 P1010303 P1010304 P1010305 We left with piles and piles of incredible architecture books (well, I left with those) and some very nice bits of junk.

After a hasty turn around at our hotel we set off again, destination… wedding.

The lane leading to the church has that perfect combination of post-box-set-ancient-wall, cow parsley and an old orchard beyond. Tick.
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While the church had an equally beautiful red brick late 18th century rectory next door. Tick.P1010329

Plain English.  Tick.
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I’d never really before seen anything like this huge area of tombs in a corner of the church.P1010333

There was a wonderful and moving ceremony, and we poured out in to the rain and wind!P1010339 P1010346

But nothing could dampen those smiles:P1010350

We partied long into the night. In various quarters of the internet there are now photos going viral of Charlie dancing without his trousers on, having torn them to shreds in some extraordinary moves earlier.. Connie’s naughty sister Eve ripped them off with a final flourish and they were gone.  For some reason Charlie had already taken to wearing a pair of wellies (blaming the weather maybe, but the rest of us managed to stay in our shoes and stay dry…) so the sight was pretty extraordinary from that point forward.  Proving, I think, the rule that you can take someone out of New Zealand but you can’t quite take the Kiwi out of them.

Of course when we returned this morning, bleary eyed, to retrieve our car, the storm had blown over and the sunshine was sparkling. But honestly the rain did not dampen spirits; it was one of the best parties ever.  Tom’s claim to fame, meanwhile, is that he set up the brilliant Honest Burgers many years ago and I have an embarrassed feeling I ate three (I certainly remember two, and I’m almost certain about the third) cooked at the little green tent that you can just spy…. completely and utterly delicious, and a bit of a life saver at about 2am.
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The day gleamed and having made our good byes to family,  Charlie and I set off across country on what felt like the most perfect of English days… and we decided to head back to London not in a completely straight line.

There were some curious moments. One minute we were driving along enjoying this, P1010363

When suddenly this happened.P1010366 P1010369

Freaky. But other than that, an easy journey.

Our destination was Lyveden New Bield, a remarkable, dreamy, haunting house now owned by the National Trust; begun in the late 16th century by that great patron of architecture (and architect) Sir Thomas Tresham, the house was never finished after his death in 1605. Remarkably, the house remained unaltered – neither completed nor demolished for its stone – until it was bought by the Trust early in the 20th century. It is powerfully beautiful.P1010374 P1010379 P1010380

Walking around these rooms you realise how different construction is today, with its vast sandwiches of different damp proof membranes and insulations to keep out the water and keep in the heat. These massive stone walls need only timber floors and panelling, glass in the windows and lime plaster on the walls to make the building complete. This is perhaps why the house makes such an elegant ruin.P1010383 P1010384 P1010386 P1010390 P1010392 P1010395 P1010399 P1010404

The rooms are filled with ancient graffiti.P1010405 P1010408

The floor plan is in the form of a huge cross; it is thought that Tresham planned a third storey with a great cupola for viewing the wide Northamptonshire country around.P1010411

Immediately adjacent is a little early 18th century cottage, a beautiful house in its own right, but all the more special for its setting.P1010415 P1010417

The house sits on a wide square platt, surrounded by a moat filled with cowslips.P1010423 P1010429 P1010432

We went for a walk around the extensive gardens, which Tresham planned also, and which the  Trust are slowly restoring.  They are superb; a network of wide green paths, woods, viewing mounds and beautiful canals.P1010439 P1010442 P1010445 P1010459 P1010473 P1010480 P1010487 P1010491

The Hawthorn trees were unreal, like a painting by Samuel Palmer.P1010495 P1010496We left having stayed much longer than we could have imagined.  Inspired by Tresham, we sped down the road to Rushton, his great estate nearby (and which is now a fancy hotel), and where, in one corner of the parkland he constructed his famous triangular lodge – originally the home of the rabbit warrener.  The lodge was built before Lyveden.  A stranger building I have not really seen.P1010505

The entire facade is finished with mystical symbols based on the Trinity. P1010506

I couldn’t help feeling – exactly as I did at Montacute a week or two ago – that this was a building you could expect to find in a dusty hillside town outside of Florence or Siena; early classical with gothic undertones.P1010507 P1010508

Inside the rooms are curiously chapel-like; white washed, and with curious pierced windows that made one feel that Sir Thomas was not overly concerned for the warrener enjoying the view.P1010512 P1010515 P1010517

The upper rooms were serene. P1010518 P1010520

The dark basement had an altogether stranger energy. Charlie and I both wanted to leave that room very, very quickly.P1010529 P1010530

We left Rushton and found our way back from narrow country lanes onto the motorway network and sped home to London through a desolate landscape of giant distribution warehouses, roadworks: the edge lands; and the world of Tresham, and even the magical evening of a day earlier, felt very remote. Now we are home back in London, with that contended feeling of real, real tiredness, and Mavis is fast asleep under the ottoman, and frankly I think we’d all like to be joining her. It’s not a feeling you could cope with at the end of every weekend, but once in a while – it’s ideal. Happy times!

15 comments on this post

as always, the writing is superb, but i’ve come to realize how much i enjoy your architecture photos. you have such an eye for the details.

Joaniesays:

You’re photography in this post is wonderful! Thank you.

Nicolasays:

This was a thoroughly interesting one. Lyveden New Build(!) and the Lodge are infused with Tresham’s Catholic recusant beliefs, hence all the references to the – I think you meant – Holy Trinity. Best, Nicola

Bensays:

whoops! Correct Nicola!

B

Mikesays:

Another delightful post – you ought to consider publishing a compilation of the “best”. Along those lines I’ve preordered your new book and am looking forward to its arrival in September. I guess I’ll have a Pentreath section in my library now!

Bensays:

Thanks Mike! I hope you love the new book! All best, Ben

chrissays:

Beautiful! A few things come to mind:
A similar bike race passed us one weekend in the Bavarian countryside around Munich…except all the contestants were naked…right, no pants, no shirt, only shoes… Imagine my tender female heart at that sight.
I’ve always wondered if the name of this plant is pronounced cows-lips or cow-slips.
How does one get so many friends and family? My wedding would consist of maybe 10 on a good day. Sounded like great fun! Wishing the newlywed couple all the best!

Bensays:

I would say cow slips

All best, Ben

Wish I had know you were so close by, should of called in for tea and cake, even stay over. Maybe next time.
William.

Isis1958says:

Lissy is right – you have the most amazing weekends. I feel a combination of glumness and envy, having spent my rainy weekend doing laundry, cleaning out closets, and packing up donations. And those beautiful landscapes are thousands of miles away!

Deby (inCanada)says:

Oh Ben
Thanks for sharing another splendid weekend- Uppingham looks a dream and your slow journey home yesterday filled with such beauty and some strangeness… now where are those pictures of Charlie!!!
cheers Deby

Thanks you for the small get-a-way on this cool crisp mountain morning. You have the most amazing weekends!
xo, Lissy

colinsays:

Once again another highly enjoyable read. Never been to Rutland, but after seeing these beautiful pictures of a delightful town it’s on the must visit list!

Isn’t Lyveden New Bield (religiously) subversive – supporting Catholicism over Protestantism? Your riverside picture is sublime, inviting a swim, with or without shredded trousers.

Dear Ben,

You were quite close to Gladden Towers. (I live over the border in Lincolnshire.) Uppingham & Rutland are both utter delights. The great W G Hoskins wrote; ‘Rutland is a small part of England as she used to be before the Industrial Revolution – unspoiled, clean, full of fine buildings, of country smells and sounds, of sound arable farming with great stone barns, of neatness, order and natural good taste almost everywhere. No other county in England surpasses Rutland for unspoiled, quiet charm….They say the best things come in small parcels; Rutland is both very small and very good.’
And you got to Lyveden New Bield too, you lucky man. It’s on our ‘to do’ list.
Rob

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